Barrigas on Sunland Park

Note Jun. 2019: All of the Barrigas locations in El Paso have now closed but it is reportedly still open in Ciudad Juarez, Mexico.

This upscale Ciudad Juarez restaurant has recently branched out into El Paso, and provides some of the most authentic Mexican food around. Probably the best feature of Barrigas is the varied menu, with many items not traditionally found in the U.S. Mexican restaurants (although this type of menu variety is increasingly found in El Paso restaurants).

Barrigas seems to specialize in meat items, particularly in finding flavorful ways to combine meat, cheese, and other ingredients. It is also a good place to go if you like a variety of salads, appetizers (such as queso fundido), desserts, and shrimp. Margaritas and other drinks are served.

The background noise and music at Barrigas can sometimes be at such a high level it is hard to hold a conversation. When they have had live mariachi bands, though, the quality of the music has been such I have not minded the temporary inconvenience in trying to converse with others at the table.

Chips and Salsa
The Chips are somewhat greasy and the Salsa has sometimes been too spicy with jalapeno peppers, but the salsa seemed to improve a lot starting about 2006. In fact I would say it is now very close to the classic El Paso and Ciudad Juarez style salsa that is spicy and flavorful, and perhaps a little heavy on extra spices that are thrown in.

The Pico de Gallo that is sometimes served in addition to the salsa is quite good, but it is usually not offered.

Enchiladas
The Red Enchiladas are good, but they are not my favorite in El Paso and I prefer them on a combination plate with other items. While they are a good example of Ciudad Juarez style enchiladas, I prefer the New Mexico style chile that does not have as many spices that modify the flavor as the Mexican style red chile. These enchiladas may be more suitable than the New Mexico style, though, for people who do not like them extremely spicy.

Chicken enchiladas

Green Enchiladas are made with puréed green chile that is normally very easy to make too spicy and not very flavorful, but the ones at Barrigas are an exception. I find the green chile here to have a flavor that is very similar to the New Mexico style green chile, although milder. These enchiladas also use melted Mexican cheese on top of the chile as well as inside the enchilada, adding to the flavor and making them among the best green enchiladas in El Paso. The green enchiladas seem to taste better with chicken inside and a side order of sour cream to make Enchiladas Suizas, not on the menu as such but is one of the better versions of this dish.

Flautas
Flautas here are well above average using thick, flavorful chunks of chicken and a large quantity of guacamole in which to dip it.

Mole
Chicken Mole is served the traditional Ciudad Juarez style, with chicken mixed into the mole, and Barrigas is one of the best. The mole sauce is not too sweet and I think has a very smooth and delicious taste. Some say mole is an acquired taste, but the one here is a good place to start if you want a more authentic version.

Enmoladas

Enmoladas, or mole enchiladas, are a way to enjoy the sauce without the chicken (enchiladas are served either with cheese or chicken). With a side order of flour tortillas I really like the mole sauce just as well as on the chicken dinner. To me, though, the enchiladas have a strong corn oil flavor that makes this a less desirable dish than the chicken mole dinner. I am tempted to go on a rant here about the less nutritious and less well balanced food customers frequently receive when they try to order vegetarian dinners, and this is a clear example. One alternative would be to order a mole burrito which is not fried (and would probably have little or no corn oil). In my opinion, though, the best flavor comes with the chicken mole dinner. Mexican food seems to be at its best when you order it with meat.

Chile Relleno
The Chiles Rellenos have been quite greasy at times but other times have been quite good. The yellow tomato sauce served on top of the relleno is flavorful. For the most part I would recommend against ordering it here–other restaurants have much better rellenos.

Puntas de Filete

Puntas de filete

Puntas de Filete is a dish of sirloin tips that is served with a choice of several sauces. I enjoyed it not only because of its flavor, but because it is something that is not served in a great number of restaurants. I suspect all the sauces are good, but if you have a hard time deciding I think the waiters will give their suggestions.

Side Dishes
Rice and beans are very good, and overall you should expect a good meal here. Barrigas does not take the time to make Mexican style agua fresca drinks, but I have been pretty happy with the food, and the prices are not bad.

More About the Restaurant
Barrigas is open late (10 p.m.) on weekdays, and later on weekends. The outdoor patio is an excellent idea to take advantage of the El Paso weather, but smoking is allowed making it unusable to me. Because of this, the usually cold air inside, and frequent loud noise, I would have to give low marks for the restaurant’s atmosphere. Still, though, it is one of the better places to get good Mexican food in an upscale setting.

RATING: 23

Mexican Food Details

Chile Index:
Cooking Oil:	Vegetable

 

Special Ratings

	Red Enchiladas
	Green Enchiladas with chicken and sour cream
	Flautas
	Mole
	Enmoladas
	Chile Relleno
	Puntas de Filete
	Beans
	Rice
	Chips
	Salsa
	Lemonade

The Mission Trail in the Rio Grande valley east of El Paso is one of the area’s biggest attractions, bringing visitors to the historic churches in Ysleta, Socorro, and San Elizario. The Socorro Mission forms the heart of the community and incorporated area of Socorro, and next to the mission can be found El Meson de Oñate, a small restaurant that provides a gastronomical experience to complement the cultural one.

Serving comida de corrida lunches, El Meson relies on local patrons to stay in business (a sign that the food is authentic), yet the ambience and the food will please even the most discriminating visitor. The owner used his carpenter skills to construct the entire building in 1999, ensuring that the architecture blended into the historic neighborhood.

When you enter, it looks as if they are serving a buffet– different items are covered in serving trays with a glass window in front. Actually, this is the kitchen which is open to view. On my first visit in March 2005 I was very impressed that the food tasted home made, and the flavor far surpassed the normal “restaurant food.”

Mexican Plate
My inagural meal started out with a complimentary Sopa de Fideo, a soup made with a spaghetti-like noodle, chunks of chicken white meat, and Mexican spices. When I tasted it I thought it must be the highlight of the meal, since it is the best I’ve ever had, but I thought the same thing about the Pico de Gallo served with chips (I liked the regular salsa also, but not as much).

The Mexican plate offered the variety I like and allowed me to review more items. The Red Enchilada was excellent– not the best in El Paso but possibly had the best cheese. I ordered a Flauta that is not normally one of my favorite dishes, but this turned out to be the best item on the plate. Perfectly fried with large chunks of meat, the crema was excellent, and the guacamole turned out to be the highlight. I saw another party who had an order of Guacamole, and I would recommend this if you are not ordering flautas or another dish that comes with guacamole.

Changes in Management
In summer 2005 the restaurant was closed for remodeling, and when I returned after that time I did not find all the food to be the same as before. The fideo and flautas were still excellent. The enchiladas, rice, beans, chips, and salsa tasted more like mass-produced “restaurant food” that you can find almost anywhere in El Paso, and I did not even get the pico de gallo that I had liked so much on my first visit. The Chile Relleno was the biggest disappointment– I had enjoyed it on my first visit but the second time it was bland, greasy, and not very flavorful (although the cheese was still good).

The Latest Information from Other Sources
Other sources said that the owner sold the restaurant after my first visit in 1999, and that is the reason the quality went down. Now, though, the original owner is back (as of 2007). Yelp reviews as of 2015 and 2016 are mostly excellent (as I would expect they would be). I am increasing my rating of the restaurant based on this new information, and I think my first visit was more indicative of the way the restaurant is now.

RATING: 23

Mexican Food Details

Chile Index:
Cooking Oil:	Vegetable

 

Special Ratings

	Red Enchiladas
	Chile Relleno
	Flautas
	Sopa de Fideo
	Chips
	Pico de Gallo

Elmer’s Restaurant

Established in 1959, Elmer’s seems to have discovered a “time warp” whereby nothing inside the restaurant ever ages. It is still the same 1950’s era diner style family restaurant complete with leather booths, salad bar, juke box, and a pie display case. The waitresses are the only thing in the restaurant that do not look as if they are left over from the fifties. Customers are treated with the same friendliness that the ones among us who are nostalgic would have expected a half century ago.

Some of Elmer’s awards on display

The food is also a throwback to the 50’s and 60’s, when there was no such thing as “healthy” restaurant food and restaurants did not have cuisine that was as specialized as it is today. Elmer’s became popular by serving both Mexican and American food, and a wide variety of each, so each person in a family could get what they wanted. If desired a person may order a Mexican plate with a salad bar or an American dish served with chips and salsa.

Chips and salsa

Even though Elmer’s serves just about every type of food, I have usually stuck with the specialties– red enchiladas, fried chicken, and breakfast dishes. This is probably not a great restaurant for American food– because of the fact that most things are fried this is not the type of food I would normally eat at home (but it is one of the few options for American food in El Paso). With the exception of enchiladas and a few other items it is probably not a great place for Mexican food either. It is a place, though, where both are served, and in this sense it is somewhat unique.

Mexican Food

Taco, rice, chile relleno, red enchilada, beans

The Red Enchiladas served at Elmer’s are some of the best in El Paso. While there is nothing exceptional about them, it is rather strange that so many restaurants in the city fail to make enchiladas that match up with Elmer’s and the handful of other restaurants that set the standard for this dish. The red chile at Elmer’s is spicy but not overly so, and they have the deep red flavor and color that is almost New Mexico style. The cheese is Mexican style, and this is just a good all-around enchilada.

The Chile Relleno is good by El Paso standards, but still a little greasy. It is topped with green chile that is flavorful but pretty generic. The main thing I did not like about it was the chile relleno itself– the topping neither detracted nor added much to the enjoyment of the dish.

The Beef Taco was plain and lightly spiced but good quality. It comes as part of the Mexican plate, which I would recommend as a way to try a variety of Mexican items.

Refried Beans were flavorful and not greasy. I would guess that they are cooked in vegetable oil. The Rice was not very flavorful, and could have been a lot better.

Fried Chicken
Fried chicken is the most famous dish here, and the menu proclaims it is the “best in the Southwest.” I might believe it is the best in El Paso, mainly for lack of competition, but I found it dry with a thick, greasy crust (a lighter crust might be better). The main disappointment came from the side dishes, though, since the whole point of eating fried chicken is to have a “fried chicken DINNER” (not just the chicken itself). It’s cheap, though, and well worth what you pay.

Additional Comments
Mexican breakfast dishes likewise are excellent and cheap– not the best in the city, but definitely better than average.

I have been going to Elmer’s for so many years I was afraid my past experiences might cause me to overlook some of its current shortcomings. The food I have eaten recently, though, has been pretty much like it always has been, so the shortcomings of Elmer’s have probably been there from the beginning. The good thing about Elmer’s is that you get exactly what you expect– a diner style restaurant that is better than the chain restaurants and less expensive.

Elmer’s famous pie display greets customers upon entering

To go along with the mix of Mexican and American food, customers will likely want a slice of Elmer’s pie. The pie display located next to the front door creates a double temptation, both when entering the restaurant and before leaving. Several varieties beckon the diner, and few are able to resist.

RATING: 19

Mexican Food Details

Chile Index:
Cooking Oil:	Vegetable

 

Special Ratings

	Red Enchiladas
	Chile Relleno
	Beef Taco
	Fried Chicken
	Beans
	Rice
	Mashed Potatoes
	Cole Slaw

La Hacienda

La Hacienda was one of the most well known and popular restaurants in El Paso until it closed in 1996, and was known for literally being on the border, with the banks of the Rio Grande located just past the edge of the parking lot.

An article from the UTEP Encyclopedia outlines the history of La Hacienda, and how it was located in one of the oldest homes in El Paso.  In 1940 it was turned into La Hacienda Restaurant, and was operated by the original owner until he passed away in 1981.  The restaurant continued with the same food and the same employees until 1993 (1993-1996 was the first of several subsequent periods in which the food was changed).

The restaurant reopened after 1996, and had several reincarnations with different owners.  I visited La Hacienda in 2004, but the food bore little resemblance to what I had remembered.  I heard that the restaurant closed for good in 2007.

The dinner salad at Amigos is a larger version of the salad that came with La Hacienda’s lunch specials

I never wrote a formal review of the original La Hacienda restaurant, but it was known for its lunch specials.  I believe there were daily specials (as there are at Amigos today) as well as combination and specialty plates that were always served.  Freshly baked bread and a small but tasty soup and salad were served as appetizers.  The portions of food were not huge but they were just right for lunch.  The waiters had worked at the restaurant for their entire careers, and they knew the customers as well as knowing how to give the “old style” service that was the traditional Mexican style.  I usually tried to go about 11:00 am because the restaurant filled up fast.  The last tables at the end of the dining room had a view of Paisano Drive instead of the more tranquil view of the “Peace Grove” in front of the restaurant, but the service was good anywhere you sat.

View of La Hacienda from the Peace Grove in 2006

I did not know until I talked to the people at Amigos that the recipes for the red enchiladas came from New Mexico, and this is why they were spicier than most others in El Paso.  Many dishes served on the daily specials seemed to come directly from Mexico, while other items such as the chile relleno, taco, rice, beans, and salsa were what I would call the iconic El Paso style.

The combination plate from Amigos continues the tradition of La Hacienda’s food

My review of La Hacienda from 2004 does not give a picture of the original restaurant, but it is part of La Hacienda’s history.

Review from my visit in 2004

I ate at the “old” Hacienda dozens of times before it changed management and the whole staff left to start Amigos Restaurant. The restaurant closed and then reopened in its current incarnation. I had heard many bad reviews that frankly scared me away, but I finally decided it give it a try.

My assessment is that it is neither as good as the people who like it a lot say, nor is it nearly as bad as the bad reviews would lead you to believe. In fact, the Chile Relleno is actually quite good. I say “chile” (singular) because one will just about fill you up. Although I don’t like the El Paso style of pouring ranchero sauce on top of it, this one actually has very good sauce (and cheese). Moreover, the egg batter was so good that it dominated the sauce, causing a really good balance of flavors. It was refreshing to have food that was hot enough to use the chips to cool it down a bit.

The Enchiladas were dark red, and although not the best in El Paso, were satisfying.

Probably the best part of going here is being in the historic building; it is almost like being in Santa Fe (actually you are a couple of hundred feet from Mexico).

The waitress I had was reviving something that is almost dead in El Paso–providing good service.

Normally I don’t care much for mariachi music but the band here is actually very good (and enjoyable).

Although I didn’t try the more expensive items on the menu, I suspect they are a lot better than the standard fare of tacos, enchiladas, etc.

Amigos Restaurant
2000 Montana Ave.
El Paso, TX
(915) 533-0155

Amigos started with almost the entire staff from the original La Hacienda, but on my last visit there were only two that were still there (and one of them only worked at lunch).  The food carries on the La Hacienda tradition, though, particularly on the lunch specials.  Amigos has added several authentic Mexican dishes, but some are served only occasionally as specials.

I think if you want to try the old food from La Hacienda it is best to ask the staff at Amigos what to order.  I don’t know if the rolls are still the same at lunch since the original source (La Ideal Bakery) is now closed, but I am sure they are staying as close to tradition as is practical and as customers still want to order.

Griggs Restaurant on Doniphan

Griggs Restaurant is probably my all time favorite restaurant in El Paso, but I say this with qualifications.  Today I do not eat as much Mexican food as before, so I would regard it as more of a “special treat” restaurant.  Another qualification is that the quality was not consistent.  I could always count on Mr. and Mrs. Griggs producing top notch food, but when they retired the restaurant closed and then reopened with the younger generation managing it.  Also there was another Griggs Restaurant in East El Paso that was sold to another owner.  The end result is that I have the best memories of the original restaurant on Doniphan.  The others were good as well, and occasionally as good as the original.

I know that there is a somewhat sizeable group of people who remember the restaurant fondly and miss it, but what I want to do here is explain the food rather than just do an article on El Paso nostalgia.  I have a copy of the Griggs family cookbook with recipes used in the restaurant, but rather than try to post the recipes I will include a link to a blog that has already done so: Won’t Read Directions

Mrs. Griggs cookbook published in 1968

One thing to understand is that Mr. Griggs grew up in Las Cruces, New Mexico, and the restaurant served New Mexico style Mexican food.  More specifically, it came from the recipes developed by his mother Josephine Griggs.  Her children operated some very well known New Mexican restaurants in 1968 when the cookbook was published–Griggs Restaurant in El Paso (Edgar), La Posta in Mesilla, NM (operated by Katherine and her family but founded by Katy’s uncle, George Griggs), and El Pinto in Albuquerque (operated by Consuelo, another daughter, along with her husband and six children).  The other daughter operated a restaurant in Rancho Cordova, California named La Posta de Rancho Cordova.

I have come to the following conclusions about the Griggs family recipes and this restaurant “empire”: (1) each of these restaurants developed its own modifications to these recipes, (2) most people who try to cook these recipes find that they are very hard to cook without making some modifications, and (3) if you follow the recipes the food does not taste the same as the food served in any of these restaurants.  I do not know why this is the case, but it really does not matter to me–I had no intention of actually trying to cook the dishes, I only wanted to enjoy the food at the various restaurants.

I have always thought that Griggs Restaurant was more “authentic” New Mexican than either La Posta or El Pinto (and I have been to both of these restaurants multiple times).  One reason I say this is that Griggs used fairly spicy chiles while La Posta is very much on the tame side (I have heard that El Pinto has some very spicy chile but that you have to get this by special request).

The “original” Griggs Restaurant (operated by Edgar and Rita) closed before I started writing reviews, so I do not have a review of the restaurant to include in this article.  Instead, I have various write-ups and bits of information that I can piece together to give a picture of the original Griggs Restaurant (in west El Paso) and the east side Griggs.

Review of the original Griggs Restaurant written 2005 (my last visit to the restaurant was in 2003)

The Griggs family reopened this restaurant with the original recipes, and it has the best New Mexico style food in town. I like the red and green enchiladas, chiles rellenos, and stuffed sopaipillas (I order them with the red chile used on enchiladas). The Griggs extended family originated La Posta in Mesilla and El Pinto in Albuquerque, New Mexico. For some reason, though, only this restaurant seems to provide the rich flavors and spiciness that I think accurately represent the original family recipes. Salsa is the one example of food here that is not very spicy, and probably out of the mainstream of New Mexico style food preparation. This is a minor detail, though, compared to the overall excellent meals that are served.

Review of the East Side Griggs (after my last visit on Nov. 30, 2006)

A restaurant that has been around as long as Griggs runs the risk of falling off the radar screen, especially when it is set back from Montana Avenue and only a non-lighted sign is visible from the street. It has also been through quite a few bumps with the closing of its Mesa Hills location and the on-again, off-again saga of the original Doniphan location (the original restaurant closed, then the children of the owners opened it as Griggs Family Restaurant, then it became became Dos Señoritas under different ownership, and finally a branch of Sombras del Pasado before it closed for good).

Griggs’ dining rooms greet visitors with several pianos and antique furniture

I have felt that the food quality has also been on a roller-coaster ride with the different owners, managers, and cooks. Anyone who knew the Griggs family cannot help associate the friendly smiles they would get and the home cooked style food that was served with the restaurants bearing their name. Of late, though, this has seemed a distant memory as the food seems to get more anglosized, or tourist oriented (as I feel that it always has been) but without the special touches I thought the food always demonstrated when the Griggs family was in charge of the kitchen. A chilehead could overlook the wimpy salsa and mild chiles because of the quality of the food, but it does not seem to have the same quality at the Montana location.

From front to back: Green enchilada, rolled taco, chile relleno, and chile con carne

Certain items at the Montana location (and at the other locations when they were open) always seem to hit the spot regardless of the cooks that are in the kitchen. One is the New Mexico style Chile Relleno, a Mesilla Valley chile surrounded by an egg batter, with no sauce on top. At times the relleno has been beyond greasy (this has been rare, though). It has only been less than enjoyable, though, when the cheese inside the relleno failed to melt (this has been quite rare indeed). I normally order combination dinners at Griggs, but with any dinner ordered I would recommend the inclusion of a relleno.

Green Enchiladas are another standout item, and are rarely less than perfect. Of course, perfection depends on the standard being used. The green chile used is not the spicy variety served at Chope’s in La Mesa, New Mexico, or a number of other New Mexican style restaurants. The one at Griggs is a mild version that even people not used to eating any kind of chiles would enjoy, yet I think the flavor rivals just about any enchilada served in the Land of Enchantment.

The Red Enchiladas have never been one of the outstanding items at Griggs. They were excellent at the Doniphan location, however.

Chile colorado, known as Chile con Carne at Griggs had a superior New Mexico style chile at the original Griggs on Doniphan. The one served at the Montana location, though, seems to lack the flavor that made the other one so good. Likewise the roast pork does not taste like anything special, while the meat at the original Griggs seemed to embody the essence of New Mexico style pork that made eating this dish seem like a special experience.

The slaw is outstanding, and I like the fact that whole beans are served rather than refried.

I do not know whether Griggs’ tortillas are home made, but they certainly taste as if they are. I always found this to be a much more pleasant way to fill up on carbohydrates than trying to down the usually stale chips with the practically chile-less salsa.

The food at Griggs may be familiar to those who have eaten at La Posta in Mesilla, New Mexico or El Pinto in Albuquerque. The Griggs family were early settlers in Mesilla, and various family members founded these three restaurants (all of which are still in business, but with different owners). While the current owners of the New Mexico restaurants have made them “touristy” on purpose, Griggs in El Paso has retained the original Griggs family recipes fairly well (they used to publish a recipe book that has some fairly authentic dishes). I cannot say the Griggs Restaurant serves totally authentic New Mexican cuisine, but it is one of the closest experiences El Pasoans can find to the type of food that would be served in Las Cruces or Albuquerque.

Peppe’s Restaurant
6761 Doniphan Dr.
Canutillo, TX
(915) 877-2152

The latest development in the Griggs Restaurant saga is the opening of Peppe’s Restaurant in Canutillo, Texas by a former cook at the original Griggs Restaurant.  I have enjoyed the food here very much, although I think the menu is a little abbreviated from the original Griggs menu.  I have heard that the owners of Peppe’s would like to publish their own version of the Griggs recipes that will be closer to the food served in the restaurant.  I don’t know the progress on this, but maybe if there is a large demand for it, it will happen.  In any case, if you liked Griggs Restaurant, go to Peppe’s (my sentiments are the same as many of the Yelp reviewers on this point).

I do want to stress to readers that the Griggs food is still available at Peppe’s, and for my taste it is still much better than La Posta or El Pinto in New Mexico.  I would probably like Peppe’s to expand its menu, but as long as I can get the green enchiladas, chile relleno, and chile con carne I think I will be pretty happy.

Information for Griggs Restaurant on Doniphan:

RATING: 24

(today I would probably give it 25, but 24 is what I gave it at the time)

Cuisine: Mexican New Mexican
Cost: $$
Alcohol: Home of the “Juan and Only” Margarita

Chile Index:

Most Recent Visit
2003

Number of Visits: 10+

Best Items
Green Enchiladas, Chile Relleno, Chicken Sopa, Slaw, Chile con Carne, Tostada Compuesta

Special Ratings

	Green Enchiladas
	Chile Relleno
	Tostada Compuesta
	Slaw

Hacienda Mexicana (Closed)
5800 Doniphan Dr.
El Paso, TX

Hacienda Mexicana

Date of Review: Mar. 2010

History:  Hacienda Mexicana opened in the building that used to be Griggs Restaurant, a long time El Paso institution.  Really nothing could replace Griggs, but Hacienda Mexicana served very high quality food (that unfortunately, few customers seemed to discover before the restaurant closed).

The photos in this article show the classic El Paso style Mexican food, and I think the rich colors of the food give a good indication of the rich flavors they contained.

In addition, though, the photo of the front of the restaurant is the best picture I have of the way the original Griggs Restaurant looked from the outside.

The old Griggs Restaurant on Doniphan Drive was such a special restaurant that I think it is only appropriate that another high quality Mexican restaurant take its place, and this is what has now happened with the opening of Hacienda Mexicana in 2010. The building resembles a hacienda, with several large dining rooms, outdoor gardens, and a peaceful setting away from other buildings. It is not located in the country as it was when Griggs opened, but it still seems that way.

Although I loved the food at Griggs, Hacienda Mexicana has made a change from Griggs’ menu and now serves a large variety of El Paso style Mexican food. I was impressed with the number of items on the menu that included such things as chicken mole (and other dishes that Griggs did not serve). I should point out that the former chef at Griggs has opened Peppe’s in Canutillo (6761 Doniphan Dr.) where the former Griggs recipes are now served. Griggs (and now Peppe’s) is New Mexico style food, while Hacienda Mexicana follows the tradition of high quality flavorful El Paso style food that I regularly experienced in the 1980’s but now I find in fewer and fewer restaurants.

Chips and salsa

Although the chips and salsa are not the most important part of most meals, they can detract from it if they are not good. The Chips here, though, were the first sign that it was a good restaurant. These were thick and well toasted, as they should be.

The Red Salsa was thick with a strong chile flavor, made in a typical Mexican style. Of the two salsas this was my favorite.

The Green Salsa was more spicy, but more runny and hard to put on the chips. The fact that they served more than one salsa was a definite plus for the restaurant, allowing a variety of flavors.

Combo plate with rice, chicken taco, flautas, chile relleno, red enchilada, beans, and salad

When I asked for suggestions about what to order, the waiter suggested a combination plate. This reassured me because on my first visit to a Mexican restaurant I like to try as many items as possible. However, this was still not an easy choice because they serve about six different combo plates, and each can be modified through substitutions. Thus the one I got was more or less my choice for the items I would like to try.

The Chile Relleno turned out to be much like the one Griggs used to serve, with an excellent batter and no sauce on top. It was stuffed with Muenster cheese, and had a little cheese on top, but to me was the utlimate chile relleno in El Paso for its simplicity and goodness. I want to start a list of “best individual items” at restaurants, and I know of no chile relleno in El Paso that could top the one at Hacienda Mexicana (in fact, it rivals the one at Chope’s in New Mexico).

I probably could never pick the best Red Enchilada in El Paso, but the one at Hacienda Mexicana was close. This was made the classic El Paso style, with a flavorful red chile that was not too spicy. I do not like a lot of additives such as cumin, and this was one where the chile flavor was left to stand on its own with only a little help from additional ingredients (in other words, just right).

The Flautas were served in the style of the “Mexican flag” with red chile, white sour cream, and a green guacamole sauce for color (the guacamole was a thin, pureed sauce). Although I thought the sauce was good, the flautas themselves were somewhat thin and dry (but not unusual for El Paso).

The Chicken Taco had the same meat as the flautas, which I thought was rather unflavorful. I ordered the taco with a soft shell (normally it comes fried), but it seemed that the restaurant was really not expert at making flavorful soft tacos as some of the more authentic Mexican restaurants are. Probably when it comes to El Paso style Mexican food the crispy tacos are best (and probably beef should be ordered instead of chicken).

The Rice was very flavorful and not dry. It tasted fresh, and not as if it had been sitting around for a while.

The Beans pointed out the main problem I had with some of the food–they had a definite salty flavor. In fact, this one thing pointed out the main difference to me between Hacinda Mexicana being a very good El Paso style Mexican restaurant (which it is) and possibly being one of the best (such as Casa Jurado). I thought the chile relleno and possibly the red enchilada here were better than at Casa Jurado, and some of the other food could be equally good if they cut down on the amount of salt used.

Hacienda Mexicana serves home made Agua Fresca drinks, including horchata and canteloupe (melón), but they said the lemonade comes from a mix.

Overall it was a very good expeience. The price was very reasonable, and the service was good. The restaurant closes at 9 p.m., so I did not have to feel rushed in trying to get there early as I do at many restaurants. This was truly a worthy replacement for Griggs, especially since I feel they are serving the same chiles rellenos that Griggs used to have.

RATING: 23

Cuisine: Mexican El Paso
Cost: $$
Accessible: Yes
Cooking Oil: Vegetable
Alcohol: Applied for License

Chile Index:

Most Recent Visit
Mar. 30, 2010

Number of Visits: 1

Best Items
Chiles Rellenos, Red Enchiladas

Special Ratings

	Red Enchiladas
	Chiles Rellenos
	Chicken Taco
	Flautas
	Rice
	Beans
	Flour Tortillas
	Chips
	Salsa
	Melón

True Thai (Closed)
4309 Fred Wilson Ave.
El Paso, TX

Date of Review: Nov. 2007

True Thai Restaurant–El Paso, TX

History:  For the several years True Thai existed it had several cooks, changes in staff, and changes in some of the food served.  I said in the review that the overall rating of the restaurant did not change over time, but the list of “best dishes” was different with each cook.

The original True Thai was my favorite, though, because of the special dishes they could make.  One of these, the Isan style phad thai, is really the reason I want to include this review on my blog.  Unfortunately I never got a photo of this dish, but it is something I will seek out whenever I am able to visit an Isan style Thai restaurant in the future.

The rating of this restaurant did not reflect the “special food” I was able to get (which included the Isan style phad thai).  In subsequent years I have had many experiences of being able to get specially prepared items at various restaurants, so this makes good for good discussions on blogs but does not normally cause me to raise the ratings of these restaurants (unless other customers can also order this food and be able to get it on demand).

One note about True Thai is that I was always intrigued by the sign (which was written in Thai).  I have since learned that it says Thai Teh (real or genuine Thai), which I know was the case at least to a certain extent.

This seems to be the most authentic Thai restaurant in El Paso (thus the name “True Thai,” I suppose). True Thai is small and sometimes requires a wait to get a table, but it is always friendly and courteous.

It has taken some experimentation to find some of the more interesting plates. This has been made more complicated by the fact that there used to be a different cook, and now it seems I have to try everything over again. I do not think the restaurant is any better or worse than it used to be, but I have definitely developed a different list of “favorites.”

Phad thai (from the regular menu)

At first my favorite was the Phad Thai, something I think the restaurant was encouraging novices in Thai food to order (as I was when I first starting going to True Thai). Although the lime, sugar, peanuts, and Thai chiles served as a condiment on the table made it enjoyable, I found the noodles to be rather sticky and gooey (how do you like my technical descriptions of Thai food?). I think this is the tamarind version of phad thai that can be contrasted to the one at Singapore Cafe that has a more brown or white color and is made without tamarind sauce. Both seem to follow authentic Thai recipes, and it is probably a matter of taste as to which one is better. When Becky at Singapore Cafe does the phad thai just right I think her version is much better. I have never found the one at True Thai to be bad, though.

I say the phad thai used to be my favorite dish because I was spoiled when the former chef made a northern Thailand style Isan Phad Thai upon special request. I was talking to her one day asking if she could make anything that was not on the menu, and this was her suggestion. Northern style phad thai is made with a tomato sauce (I assume instead of the tamarind) and is more spicy than the southern style dish. This became my regular request at the restaurant, but I had to go at a time when the restaurant was not very busy and the ingredients for the dish were available (which I could never predict). This was one of the best Thai dishes I have tried, but it never caught on so that it would be added to the menu. The current chef either cannot or does not wish to prepare northern Thailand dishes, so I have not had the Isan phad thai in quite a while.

The main lesson I have found from going to a number of Thai restaurants is that almost all Thai food is good, but only a few restaurants bring it to the level of greatness that I think represents Thailand’s best food. The northern style phad thai I used to get at True Thai was one of those dishes I thought rose to the level of greatness. Most of the things on True Thai’s menu are not what I would consider special when compared to some of the best Thai restaurants in other cities. Still, there are quite a few things I enjoy and can recommend.

The curry dishes have consistently been the best in El Paso. They started out being thin and runny, being just slightly better than at the other restaurants. I have been pretty impressed, though, by the way the current chef has made the curry thicker with a more vibrant flavor. It is now coming close to some of the better curries I have ever had.

Phad prik king

Phad Prik King is one of the better curry dishes, consisting of a red curry served with green beans. I have tried several meats with it, with shrimp being the best. The chicken did not have a flavor that was quite as enticing as it should be. Probably the versions I like best are with vegetables or tofu. Until 2007 the phad prik king has always been like I have found it in other restaurants–red curry made without coconut milk. For some reason the chef has now begun using red curry with coconut milk, which I do not believe is the traditional way this dish is made. However, I do not know whether to complain that the curry is non-traditional or be glad because it is so good. I have certainly not exhausted all the Asian restaurants in Texas, but the only ones I have experienced that have better curry (with the coconut milk) are the Lao restaurants in Amarillo. I suspect, though, that if the chef would make it without coconut milk, as it was before, it would be just as good if not better.

Phad king

The Phad King (ginger) has a delicious sauce, but the vegetables have been disappointing. The vegetables usually consist of a lot of bell peppers and other crunchy things that I do not like as much as the more traditional green vegetables. More than anything, I just have not found the dish to be filling enough when I order the vegetable version.

Tom yum

One of the best items has been Tom Yum. It consisted of a good amount of vegetables in a soup broth with curry paste and a generous amount of lime (a choice of meat was also available). The lemongrass and galanga provide just about everything that makes this dish good (there is even a jar of Thai peppers and fish sauce on the table that can be added).

Other types of soup with seafood have been very good, but I do not remember what they were called on the menu.

So far I have found that just about everything except the phad thai is better with a side order of rice. It costs extra, though.

The Thai Tea is one of the best I have found at any Thai restaurant, and has never been disappointing on the numerous times I have ordered it.

One problem I have found at True Thai has been the lack of variety on the menu and the fact that they do not serve a lot of items I find at just about every other Thai restaurant I have visited. Some of the items that are served occasionally lack some of the ingredients that are normally included in the dish. (I think both of these shortcomings are symptoms of El Paso’s isolation from a large Asian population and a lack of Asian super markets). I believe the restaurant is doing the best it can, and at least is delivering more authentic Thai food than can be found in other establishments around the borderland.

Probably my biggest gripe with True Thai is that I do not think either the chicken or tofu are as good as they should be. I have tried some beef dishes that were not very exciting. Probably the only items I would recommend here are ones made with seafood or vegetables, and even the vegetables have left me disappointed on occasion. The curries and sauces here are pretty good–it is just the items that go with the sauces that are disappointing.

The restaurant is small with about eight tables, and I don’t care much for the plastic patio chairs that are used. While the food is not expensive, an order of spring rolls or soup will push the price up so that it becomes one of the higher priced Asian restaurants in the city. Rice is extra and Thai tea is more expensive than the regular tea.

There are several other dishes I have tried and found mediocre (three stars). There are many more that I have not tried, and may be quite good. I do know that the curry dishes are pretty good and seem to have improved from when the restaurant first opened. It is well worthwhile giving True Thai a try.

RATING: 19

Cuisine: Thai
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Sun.
Assessible: Yes
Most Recent Visit
Nov. 10, 2007

Number of Visits: 10+

Best Items
Tom Yum, Phad Prik King, Thai Iced Tea

Special Ratings

	Tom Yum
	Phad Prik King
	Phad King
	Phad Thai
	Thai Iced Tea

Casa Jurado (Closed)
226 Cincinnati Ave.
El Paso, TXDate of Review: Feb. 2007 (updated Mar. 2016)

Casa Jurado in Kern Place–El Paso, TX

History:  For many years Casa Jurado was one of El Paso’s most popular restaurants, serving the classic “El Paso style” Mexican food.  This was characterized by red and green chile enchiladas, a large variety of items (some of which seemed to be unique to the El Paso area), and the fact that it contained elements of New Mexican cuisine as well as authentic dishes from Mexico.

In the meantime, a second location opened on Doniphan Drive in El Paso’s Upper Valley, known as Casa Jurado West.  This was operated by another Jurado family member, and had food which was much the same as at the original location.

Henry Jurado, the long time owner and manager of the original Casa Jurado, sold the restaurant in 2004.  The new owners continued the same menu as before, but long time customers seemed to notice subtle changes to the food and began to come less frequently than before (they kept the same cooks and waiters that had been at the old Casa Jurado, but there was enough variability in the food that I wasn’t always sure it was still the “same old” Casa Jurado).  The restaurant closed in 2010.  I think changes in the food were not the only reason for this, or even the main reason.  At the time the “Cincinnati District” was going through drastic changes, becoming more of a night club scene than the traditional shopping and restaurant district that had been there before.  It became almost impossible to find a parking spot even if you wanted to go to Casa Jurado, and the restaurant just did not fit the neighborhood very well any more.

Casa Jurado West is still operating with the traditional Jurado family recipes.  I never liked it quite as much as the original restaurant, but it is nevertheless one of the top “El Paso style” restaurants in the city.

The following review was written after the ownership of the original restaurant changed, and is a description of the “post-Henry” restaurant with allusions to the original.

Casa Jurado is not only an El Paso institution, its Kern Place location is in one of the city’s most interesting neighborhoods. Surrounded by several bars, coffee houses, and other restaurants, Casa Jurado itself is decorated with bright colors to convey the feeling of festivity felt throughout Cincinnati Avenue.

Casa Jurado gained a reputation through the years for the quality of its food, and I believe one secret to its success was the constant attention by its long-time owner. When Henry sold the restaurant in 2004, however, the big question became whether the quality could be maintained.

For a while the food did not seem to be the same as when the Jurado family still had the restaurant. However, through keeping the same cooks and waiters the restaurant has maintained a continuity so that as of 2007 it seems to be the same “Casa J” as before.

Chips and salsa at Casa Jurado

In theory, the food should be even better now than before. The Salsa is the only item that has been purposely changed to a more fresh and light flavor. I think it is still pretty heavy on the comino but I thought it was good. If you wish to take a taste test you can try the one at Casa Jurado West which still serves the original salsa.

A conscious effort has been made by the owner of the Casa Jurado in Kern Place to keep things fresh by making the food daily and not keeping anything overnight. One time I went they had run out of green sauce for the enchiladas because they had more customers than anticipated that day, and the sauce is only made in small batches that would not be prepared again until the next morning. This also means that if you go in the evening not everything on the menu might be available.

Enchiladas Norteñas

Enchiladas Norteñas was my favorite dish at the old Casa J., and currently at the Doniphan (Casa Jurado West) location. This is characterized by a distinctive dark red sauce with a well-balance chile flavor that has been one of my favorite enchilada dishes in El Paso (partly because the enchiladas are stacked instead of rolled). When I tried them shortly after the changeover they had too much garlic and had been transformed into a bright red sauce that was little different from countless restaurants in the city. Based on my recent experiences at the restaurant I suspect they are now back to the original style, but without ordering this specific dish I cannot make a rating of it. It does seem, though, that the restaurant tried to change at first, then went back to the original way of doing things that made Casa Jurado a success in the first place.

Chicken flautas

My recent experience with Chicken Flautas was quite good, and convinced me that Casa Jurado is once again among the best Mexican restaurants in the border city. If you have ever had a “perfect” order of flautas where the shell, guacamole, and side dishes (beans and rice) were done just right, you will know what the ones at Casa Jurado were like. The flute shaped taquitos were small, without much meat filling, but this is the classic way of serving them. From the freshness of the lettuce served on the side to the refried beans, everything seemed the same as some of the excellent flautas served in Ysleta, Socorro, and San Elizario, where I think the best examples of the dish are normally found. The only component of the flautas that I thought was less than perfect was the chicken that had a flavor I frequently encounter in Mexican food, but that I nevertheless do not like very much (kind of a dry taste). Still it was good, and next time I will probably get beef flautas. Even if you order chicken, I still highly recommend this dish.

At the old Casa J. the Chile Relleno was one of the best items (the melted cheese inside was the best part of it). I have not tried the relleno recently, but it is likely still the same.

Chicken Mole used to be very good. It is a matter of taste on this dish, but currently I like the version at Carnitas Queretaro the best.

Salpicón has always been the restaurant’s specialty–a type of beef salad that is served cold. It actually reminds me somewhat of the lab salad served at Thai and Lao restaurants.

One of the best dishes at Casa J. used to be an order of Green Enchiladas. Although they came with the typical puréed green chile, a waiter who knew me (and who still works at the restaurant) suggested that the cook add green chile strips on top to make them spicier. This may cost extra, but I think it would be so worth it.

Rice is still excellent and is one of the few examples in El Paso where the cooks seem to take as much care to cook them properly and keep them heated as they do with the main dishes.

Refried Beans are better than before. It could be that they have now started using vegetable oil, but I really do not know the reason they seem to be so good.

One of the toppings for flautas is Guacamole, which is also quite a good dish in itself. The one here is fresh and flavorful, and one of the best in El Paso.

The flauta plate comes with Chile con Queso on the side, or this can also be ordered as an appetizer. I thought the one here was fresh and flavorful, and was the type of queso that could only be dreamed about in most Oklahoma Mexican restaurants. The Tex-Mex restaurants in other parts of the country usually give a comlimentary serving of something called “queso,” but which is so far removed from the one served at Casa Jurado I am not sure they are made with the same ingredients. A waiter told me the one here was made with Velveeta (something I am pretty sure is used in the Tex-Mex restaurants), but mixed with Monterey Jack cheese that I think gives the Casa J. queso its special flavor. Of course, the fresh chiles inside are also a key ingredient.

I should also mention the fact that the Chips at Casa Jurado are thick and flavorful, and are some of the best in the city. The ones at the “old” restaurant were good, but I do not remember them being this good.

The Flan over the years has been one of the best I’ve eaten.

I am glad the new owner is taking a serious approach not only in maintaining the Jurado family traditions, but also in making improvements that are noticeable. If some of my previous disappointments have now been rectified, the restaurant can now be considered better than before. I think it is at least close to the type of food Henry brought us for a number of years.

*** Also see Three Versions of Enchiladas–New Mexico, El Paso, and Mexico Style

RATING: 25 (Pre-2004)

Cuisine: Mexican El Paso
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Sun.
Cooking Oil: Vegetable
Alcohol: Full Bar

Chile Index:

Most Recent Visit
Feb. 27, 2007

Number of Visits: 10+

Best Items
Salpicón, Chiles Rellenos, Chicken Mole, Flautas, Enchiladas Norteñas (at the original restaurant)

Special Ratings

	Enchiladas Norteñas (this is the pre-2004 rating)
	Chiles Rellenos
	Chicken Mole
	Flautas
	Refried Beans
	Salsa